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Chris Goodrum (Gauntleys)

The grain barley gets a look in as the malt and oak dominates from the first whiff. Toasted oak and bread form a dense background, sweetened by muscavardo sugar melting on porridge. [Palate] Now that’s different: how many blends do you know that kick off with and immediate impact of sweetness that offers about four or five levels of intensity, and each accompanied by a toasted oakiness? Very, very different, charming, fascinating … and delicious. Long, [finish] mocha with the emphasis on the coffee and then at the end some firm grains at last get a toe-hold; this whisky is talking an entirely different language to any Irish blend I (Jim Murray) have come across before, or any blend come to that. What a fabulous whiskey! And whether it be a malt or a blend, who cares? Genius whiskey is genius whiskey. (JM)